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The young and the brave embrace new ways of overcoming fear. Speed, height, maximum physical exertion and specialised equipment: check. A high level of inherent danger: check. Extreme sports like skateboarding, skim boarding, downhill mountain biking and parkour are increasingly taking hold in the hearts of local adrenaline-loving folks. It’s the challenge of attempting to control physics, pushing the limits and pitting man against nature that is so thrilling, it would seem. “I got into skateboarding because it is a sport where you can explore new extreme tricks every day,” says Azreen Azman, a Penang skateboarder who is well-known in the circuit. Unlike road cycling, downhill mountain biking is a sport practiced on steep and rough terrain which involves jumping and cruising through obstacles. Compared to road cycling, an entirely different bike is needed. For instance, a mountain bike is heavier; and equipment like helmets and kneepads are must-haves. Adam Feroze Ahmed, a Penang-born downhill mountain biker, has been riding since 2001. “In Malaysia, apart from football and badminton, you cannot make a living from sports,” he laments. “I represented Malaysia for five years in tournaments and I paid for it myself. Mountain biking is a growing sport, but unfortunately the government puts more money on road cycling. Last year I received sponsorships from Penang Water Supply Corporation (PBA), but the amount was insufficient to bear the overall costs.” Low support and sponsorship leads to local extreme sportspeople resorting to self-funding. Parkour, a training discipline using movements developed from military obstacle course training, has even fewer selling points. Edwards Hum Jie Shen, a Penang-born traceur – a skilled runner and jumper in parkour – who has been doing the sport for eight years, says, “We don't have sponsors; we are self-funded. Back then, there was no one to teach us.” Things are slightly peachier for skateboarding: the rapid growth of local skateboarding shops gives a glimmer of hope for the skateboarders – particularly in terms of getting equipment and sponsors. For Azreen, being exposed to international skate scenes and taking part in competitions such as Singapore’s King of Rail and Gap, Volcom Wild in the Parks in Jakarta and Medan, and South Korea’s KXF World Games in Chuncheon have given him confidence that skateboarding could be more than just a pastime – it could be his career. “When I started going for skating competitions and won, my family began to see that what I was doing was not just a hobby,” he says. Azreen who has been skating for almost 13 years, can breathe a sigh of relief as he is now an ambassador for a number of local and international skateboarding brands, such as Vans, Nates Skateboard, Embassy Pro Shop, Weakend and Papan Skateboard. For some, looking for sponsors is a tiring thing to do; time is better spent setting up their own stores, at the same time promoting and educating rookies. For skimboarder Kee Jet Shun, his store, Skim Shack in Fettes Park, helps him introduce the sport to the public, in particular young Penangites. “I never actually thought of running a shop. It just happened because there was no way for a person like me to promote skimboarding and to supply equipment,” he explains. A Place to Practice There is a trait that links the extreme sportspeople of the state: their versatility when it comes to training grounds. “In Penang, we don’t have any specific place to train; what we do is adapt ourselves to the environment,” says Kee. The island is the right place for skimboarding: from June to September, the west coast monsoon season creates ripe conditions for the sport. Skimboarding can be played in two ways: the first is flatland, where the skimboarder skims on shallow water and performs tricks similar to skateboarding; this method can be played throughout the year. The second way is to catch shore break waves, like surfing. Azreen deems the safety level of the Batu Uban and Youth Park skate parks as unsatisfactory, a condition that limits the potential of skaters. “The ramps, hand reels and stairs in Youth Park are bigger in size and not suitable for beginners, whereas the skate park in Batu Uban is too small and unmaintained,” Azreen says. Even so, many skaters in the state have turned professional; there is a new trend where skaters skate on the streets for the wide variety of obstacles and only use the skate parks for practice. Penang Hill and Mount Erskine are the two hotspots for local and international downhill mountain bikers – with one drawback: the bikers have to share the same track with other users, such as hikers. “It is a bit of a shame – in more developed countries, people are starting to take mountain biking seriously. New Zealand is a very good example: the trails are built by the city council – a specific trail that no horses or walkers are allowed to use. Infrastructure in Penang is not bad, but there isn’t a vision to develop it as a mountain bike destination,” says Adam. The Penang Youth Park is where local traceurs practice while they look for new places in residential areas, shop lots and even playgrounds with obstacles that are suitable and safe. Bright Future Ahead? In countries like the US, skateboarding has been incorporated as a governmentsupported sport – just like basketball, tennis and football. It is not yet the case in Malaysia, but things might change, with skateboarding and surfing recommended for inclusion at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. “If the government takes this seriously, it has to begin training and supporting us in terms of training facilities,” says Azreen. Many extreme sports-goers express the same hope: “All we need is a strong core body of people to keep promoting the sport and, hopefully, it can be accepted and be popular. All we have to do is put it out there,” says Kee. For a traceur like Hum, who sees parkour as a game of self-discipline and a medium to challenge the potential of the human body, he has no doubt that it could be the sport for everybody. “It will grow in the future; we are getting a lot of people. This sport is not about competition; it is about self-discipline,” he says. While it is doubtless that extreme sports is gaining traction, it should be recognised for its distinctiveness – the athletes go faster and push the limits. Physical training is a must, and so is mental preparation. Extreme sports means conquering one’s fear of danger. *This article was first published in Penang Monthly, April 2016.

These street shops are about much more than just coffee and food – they are where conversation and camaraderie flourish. By: Izzuddin Ramli & Nurul Fadilah Ismawi Waking up to a morning coffee at a kopitiam; that is a ritual for many of us. But it’s not just about the caffeine kick – it’s the camaraderie that comes with the drink. It’s about the elders who stop for breakfast on their way home after performing their Fajr prayer at the mosques; it’s about the folks who chitchat there after a long day at work; it’s about the youths who pore over ideas while having a cuppa. At kopitiams, which literally means “coffee shop” in Malay and Hokkien/Hakka, breakfast food, such as toast, half-boiled eggs and porridge, is available throughout the day. “Even if it looks old, people still visit my shop,” says Bee Hin, who has been running Bee Hin Café on Jalan Transfer for more than 50 years. “Running a small coffee shop like this doesn’t make me rich, but it does make me happy. I like to serve people and see people talk and laugh while drinking their coffee.” More than Breakfast Kopitiams of all sorts are scattered around George Town, and while they are run mostly by ethnic Chinese, they attract a clientele that knows no racial or religious bounds. The reason? Apart from filling bellies, a kopitiam serves as a venue for tête-à-têtes, which more often than not turn into friendly group discussions – “coffee shop talk”. The elderly can be found catching up on stories they may have missed; a few even turn the place into a Chinese chess arena. Social-political discourses flourish, and a wealth of oral histories, peppered with pre-war tales and stories about places, can be heard. Amid its loudness, scandals are spread. “Sometimes, there are people who just sit and read the newspaper while having breakfast. There are also people who turn my shop into a parliament hall – they like to talk about politics. You can listen to gossip, too. I sometimes join them,” reveals Bee Hin. Kopitiams attract the young as well: “I prefer this old-fashioned kind of coffee shop than all those hip cafes that are currently trendy. The coffee and toast are delicious and economical, and I get to listen to stories about Penang from the older customers,” says Alvin Yap, a 30-year-old computer engineer. Fret not if you have missed the morning news; simply visit a kopitiam and tune in. Heritage Establishments The coffee-drinking culture existed long before independence in 1957 – and so have the kopitiams; P. Ramlee films dating from the 1950s and 1960s show that visiting warungs – the Malay version of kopitiams – for coffee was common, and coffee was also offered to visitors as a gesture of friendship. Then there is the distinct design of kopitiams, with their furniture and decorations collected along the way, that takes one back to the past. “The business was passed from generation to generation,” says a coffee shop operator on Lebuh Kimberley. “I am just helping to keep this kopitiam running.” New cafes are also making their mark in town. These usually have choices of Western food on their menu, are dimly lit and have soothing lounge music or jazz playing on their stereos. Air conditioning, power sockets, free Wi-Fi and comfy couches are the norm – and perhaps the reason behind why people choose to work there than in the comfort of their homes. A cup of coffee can triple in price in these surroundings; these cafes are not just selling the beverage, they are also selling the ambience. With joints like these, what does the future hold for kopitiams? “I hope people will always come to kopitiams. That is the only way they can contribute and keep us alive. Otherwise, kopitiams will close their doors, one by one,” says a cook at Joo Hooi Café, Jalan Penang. Many social and political revolutions began over a cup of coffee – such as the French Revolution, which started at cafes where people came together to plan and discuss bigger issues. In Malaysia, all the “coffee shop talk” might in fact foster change. Kopitiams are more than just about the authenticity of coffee and simple comfort food. They are a place of learning, an archive and a space that knows no ethnic or class boundaries. So go ahead, visit a kopitiam and engage in random conversation over a freshly brewed cup of joe. *This article was first published in Penang Monthly, May 2016.

Seberang Perai is famed for its sumptuous cuisine. Its kopitiams serve more than food – they unite people from all walks of life. Before coffee franchises and hipster cafes, there existed the good old kopitiam. And in Seberang Perai, the kopitiam has a character of its own: nestled in old shophouses, furnished with wooden tables and chairs and usually owned and run by the elderly. While their decor may vary, kopitiams in Penang usually have a similar classic menu listing coffee, tea, milo and the signature toasted bread – or “roti bakar” – with butter and/or kaya, complete with half-boiled eggs and packets of nasi lemak for those who wish to complement their breakfast with something spicy. In the old days, a kopitiam would use charcoal to toast their bread. It was a tedious process handling burning charcoal, and one had to be extremely careful not to burn the bread. Nowadays, most kopitiams use simpler methods. Roti bakar is a staple for many kopitiam goers. “I come for the fluffy butter toast and creamy coffee,” says Erina Malek, sipping her cup of hot coffee from an old porcelain cup. “Every morning brings a new scene, with people busy chatting or enjoying their breakfast.” But there’s more to the kopitiam than just coffee and roti bakar; it is also a place where language fluidly changes – one can detect shifting dialects and colloquialisms being used to order beverages, such as kopi o, kopi o peng, kopi c and cham. “Kopi” is the Malay word for coffee, while the suffixes are in Hokkien: kopi o is hot black coffee with sugar; kopi o peng is iced black coffee with sugar; kopi c is hot coffee with evaporated milk and sugar; cham is a mixture of coffee, tea and a bit of sweetener. While kopitiams are predominantly a Chinese affair, there are several in Seberang Perai that dish out halal cuisine due to the mainland’s population being 50% Malay. Two such kopitiams are Meng Chai Kopitiam and Luan Fong Kopitiam. “My coffee shop has been serving three different races for the past 50 years,” says Ah Hoe, who owns Meng Chai Kopitiam in Butterworth. Besides offering varieties of roti bakar, his mouth-watering beef noodle soup should not be missed. Being the eldest child in the family, Ah Hoe was tasked with helping his father run the shop. In the 1940s his father had worked as a chef at the Australian Air Force Base (RAAF, in Teluk Air Tawar); he then opened a small coffee shop selling hot beverages and beef noodles. The kopitiam, which dates back to before Independence, is an establishment for the locals and it is no wonder one can see various races in the shop eating and chatting away today. Another hidden gem for coffee lovers is Luan Fong Kopitiam. Despite its remote location, this spot receives a fair number of customers every day. Founded by Lim Pong Joo, Luan Fong Kopitiam started out in 1959 as a small stall next to the Cathay Cinema in Butterworth: “My husband inherited the coffee shop from his father,” says Cecelia Liew. “Now, my daughter is continuing the legacy.” After more than 50 years in existence, the kopitiam relocated to Lorong Bagan Luar 3, and is currently run by Pong Joo’s son, Lim Teng Peng; the present joint opened its doors nearly nine years ago. Luan Fong Kopitiam’s specialty is its rich homemade kaya, which is freshly produced every week. It is so delicious that buyers from as far away as Japan, Holland, Australia and England come to buy in bulk in order to sell it at home. Besides offering toasted bread dipped in runny eggs or a bowl of hot beef noodles, these joints are a testimony to the diversity of Malaysia: Penangites of various races and religions continue to break bread together. Just pop over to a kopitiam today, and see for yourself. *This article was first published in Penang Monthly, September 2016.

Coerced on one side and coaxed on the other, young Malaysians find freedom in music and theatre. University students used to be active in theatre clubs on their campuses. But all that ended during the 1970s. Students were no longer allowed to participate in politics; this limited their creative development but, happily, it led to theatres being started outside the universities. This served as a catalyst for new political expression among Malaysia’s young people, and KL soon became the birthplace of many activists. Despite their diverse backgrounds, activists such as Mat Koy, Fathi Aris Omar, Rahmat Haron, and Jonah and Black (just to name a few) came together and formed Universiti Bangsar Utama (UBU). This was not a charity-based group but a protest against the unfairness and weaknesses in the Malaysian political system at the time. Within a rented shop lot in Bangsar Utama, many programmes were organised, such as free tuition classes for the underprivileged, intellectual discussions, film screenings and theatre performances. With changing times and generations, UBU morphed into Kelab Bangsar Utama (KBU) and gave birth to art groups that believe that art is a powerful channel for bringing political change. It is also a response to socio-political problems in the country. And apart from documenting and educating the public, it has been serving as the face of a new form of youth political activism in Malaysia. Theatre and music with a message Apart from the many protests and volunteerism activities they have organised, such as Dapur Jalanan (food kitchen), people at KBU are also involved in the performing arts. Hishamuddin Rais, better known as “Isham”, became the backbone of a group called Teater Bukan Teater. A political activist as well as a film and theatre director, Isham is considered the “guru” in facilitating most of the group’s youth activities. Among their earliest theatre performances was Tok Ampoo (The Apple Polisher); the title character refers to authorities who misuse their power and are involved in corruption. At the end of the play, Tok Ampoo was toppled by the people. The story is a reflection of the political situation in Malaysia in the 1990s, and it is not the only one. Bilik Sulit (The Interrogation Room) also mirrored Malaysia’s contemporary political situation. Detention without trial, death in custody and attacks on media freedom mark Malaysia’s political scene, and Bilik Sulit was aimed at raising awareness of local realities. Through this performance, Teater Bukan Teater began its first tour around Malaysian and European cities in 2014. The most recent theatre performance by the group is Bilik Kabinet (The Cabinet Room). A parody that reenacts prominent political characters in Malaysia by exaggerating their particular personalities, Bilik Kabinet revolves around current issues and policies. Besides theatre, KBU is very much engaged in street busking. The BangsArt – an abbreviation for “The Bangsar Art” – was established earlier this year. The group was formed after they played music to raise funds for flood victims in Kelantan and Terengganu. The group consists of 20-something-year-olds who have musical background and enthusiasm for folk music. They find that music is also a medium for spreading messages to the people; their aim is to tell the people to not be afraid to think and to have different voices. They participated in Bersih 4. Their vocalist, Amir Abd Hadi, said that Bersih 4 was a “people’s festival” and they wanted the people to participate. One of the ways was through music. “We’ve been talking about how to get people interested in joining demonstrations in the streets or to attend forums,” says Amir. “There will be no more ‘boring talks’ (as an excuse) to not attend demonstrations and forums.” When delivering messages through verbal communication does not work, music comes in handy. The BangsArt is not just a band; it is also a community that walks with the people and organises social activities. They are the same people who help operate Dapur Jalanan. Tuition classes, “Kelas Kita”, are also conducted for the needy. Resistance through music and theatre Mobilising art groups as informal resistance is not easy; it requires endless effort and collaboration between groups. Theatre is not just about technicalities such as movement, sounds or stage arrangement; more importantly it is about knowledge and critical attitude towards a particular event. It requires everyone in KBU, especially folks at The BangsArt and Teater Bukan Teater, to have sharp minds, awareness of issues that are affecting society and audacity to question the issues – even if they are of a sensitive nature. This can only be achieved if they do not focus merely on theatre and music, but also political activities as well. But being political theatre and music groups that are critical of the ruling government means no doubt that they would face challenges from the government itself. While the groups have not suffered interference from the government as yet, almost every one of them has been arrested for various reasons. Most of the members of The BangsArt were arrested during the #TangkapNajib demonstration in August this year. Musical instruments were taken away and have yet to be returned to the group. Amir was arrested while on his way home. The existence of many laws, such as the Security Offences Act (Sosma) and the Sedition Act – supposedly meant to curb activities that threaten the country – are seen to hinder the growth of these groups. Moreover, Bilik Sulit itself is openly cynical of oppressive laws that are used to detain politicians and activists. Bringing popular forms of political participation such as theatre and music to different levels of society, both urban and rural, is also needed. Street theatre ought to be popularised among villagers, and KBU through Teater Bukan Teater and The BangsArt has a significant role to play in this. It is after all probably the only youth group of its kind in the country. Political awareness among Malaysians remains low, and it is hoped that new groups that raise political consciousness and show resistance to unfair practices will continue to exist and grow – unhindered and unobstructed by oppressive laws. *This article was first published in Penang Monthly, December 2015.